Brick mortar repair after a home inspection
Crumbling mortar gets repointed, often $3 to $15 a square foot, and clogged weep holes get cleared. Get a mason's bid and ask the seller for it.
Updated · By 
Ben Sikes
What are weep holes in brick?
Weep holes are small openings in a brick wall that let water drain out from behind the brick. If your report says they're clogged or missing, or the mortar is crumbling, get a mason's written bid for the brick mortar repair and ask the seller for that figure. A brick veneer wall is built to let some rain through, catch it on the flashing inside the wall, and send it out through the weeps. It sits with the other exterior findings on an inspection report.
Key takeaways
- Clogged weeps get cleared with a thin dowel or stiff wire, without damaging the flashing.
- Walls 8 feet or taller push the price toward the top of the range, at least $10 a square foot on high surfaces.
- Ask the mason for repointing jobs they've done, not just brick they've laid. It's a separate skill.
How much does brick mortar repair cost?
The scope sets the price, so pick the row that matches what your report names.
| Scope | Cost | Source |
|---|---|---|
| Repointing brick, per square foot (use this row for a repointing bid) | $3 to $15 | HomeAdvisor |
| Tuckpointing, per square foot (what some masons charge when they use that name) | $5 to $25 | Bob Vila |
| One 8 by 10 foot wall | $400 to $2,500 | Bob Vila |
BIA says repointing is "sometimes referred to as tuckpointing." Treat them as one job: compare a repointing bid against the first row, and ask the mason which name the bid uses. Height adds cost. Bob Vila says most masons charge toward the top of the range on structures 8 feet or taller, and at least $10 a square foot on high surfaces.
Say your report flags crumbling mortar on one 8 by 10 foot wall. The wall row gives $400 to $2,500. Clearing or drilling weeps is a separate line, so take that figure from the mason's written bid.
Kept prices every line of an inspection report for $79, usually under 4 hours, and marks the ones that need a professional quote.
What if my report says the weep holes are clogged or missing?
Blocked weeps trap the water the flashing collects. The Brick Industry Association (BIA) says weeps are required "at the level of the flashing at all locations." Its maintenance guide lists missing or clogged weeps as a possible cause of spalled brick, deteriorated mortar, stains, efflorescence (white salt deposits), corrosion of concealed materials and damaged interior finishes.
The preferred kind is an open vertical joint left without mortar. BIA recommends them no more than 24 inches apart, and says most building codes allow up to 33.
The fix depends on the wording in your report:
- Clogged: BIA says they "can be cleaned out by probing with a thin dowel or stiff wire," taking care not to damage the flashing just below and behind them.
- Missing or too far apart: a mason drills new weeps, with the same care for the flashing.
- Buried: BIA puts the base flashing and weeps no more than 10 inches above finished ground, and tells designers to allow for planting beds and sidewalks against the wall. If mulch or soil has been piled over them, point that out to the mason.
Can you cover weep holes? Don't seal them. BIA says coatings "should not replace or be considered equivalent to" code-required details like flashing and weeps. BIA allows screens or vents in the opening, which can discourage insects.
How serious is deteriorated mortar?
Not always urgent. BIA says cracked or worn mortar "does not necessarily warrant immediate repair." Veneer walls, it says, can manage extra moisture that gets through minor cracks in the outer layer of brick. BIA lists the conditions that call for repointing: "mortar erosion exceeding ¼ in. (6.4 mm), crumbling mortar, mortar with voids, hairline cracks in the mortar, and cracks between the brick and mortar."
Cracks through the brick itself are a different finding. BIA leaves "structural cracks in brickwork" out of its maintenance guide and says they "often require professional investigation" to find the cause. If your report describes cracks running through bricks, not just the joints, have a structural engineer look before your deadline and before you price anything.
How do you repair mortar joints?
Repointing is the standard fix. BIA defines it as "removing damaged or deteriorated mortar to a uniform depth and placing new mortar in the joint." BIA says it's "generally recommended and is performed more often" than face grouting, which fills fine hairline cracks by brushing grout into them. Grouting leaves joints looking slightly wider and less textured.
Can you put new mortar on top of old? No. Old mortar comes out first, to a depth of at least twice the joint width, generally ¾ inch, or until the mason reaches sound mortar.
Does the mortar mix matter? Yes. BIA says the new mortar's strength "must be equal to or lower than" the original's. A stronger mix can make the face of the surrounding brick flake off, which BIA calls spalling. BIA generally recommends Type N for modern walls and recommends lab testing the old mortar when its type is unknown. BIA says Type O fits where mortars with more cement would be too strong, and it reserves Type K, the weakest, for historic masonry.
What do I ask the seller for?
Call a mason who does repointing. BIA says repointing should be done "only by qualified and experienced repointing craftspeople." In its words, "an individual who is an excellent mason may not be qualified for repointing." HomeAdvisor says most bricklayers offer free estimates. The guide to getting repair estimates during the inspection period covers how to get one before your deadline.
Ask for the bid total and attach the bid. Ask for a credit if you want to choose who does the repointing. Ask for the repair if you'd rather it be finished before closing, and ask for the mason's invoice. The buyer repair request letter template has the wording, and what to ask for after a home inspection covers the rest of your list.
Is crumbling mortar a reason to walk away?
Once a mason quotes it, mortar and weep work has a price. That makes it a line to negotiate, not by itself a reason to leave. It changes if an engineer finds structural cracking, or if stains, efflorescence or interior damage near the wall show water has been getting in. Have the mason or inspector check behind the brick before you treat it as a mortar line. Weigh that with when to walk away after a home inspection. Your contract sets the exact deadline and terms, so confirm them with your agent or attorney.
Will new mortar stick to old mortar?
Yes, but not as well as the original did. BIA says repairs "may improve the existing bond between mortar and brick" but "are unable to achieve the same level of bond performance established during original construction." They still reduce how much water gets into the brickwork.
How do I know what the rest of my list is worth?
The mason's bid covers this line, but your report has others. If the brick is one line of many, upload your inspection report to Kept and spend your remaining days on the bids that need a mason or an engineer.
Sources
Cost figures are modeled from public wage and materials data unless a line says observed. Kept is accountable for the numbers on this page, and corrections go to support@usekept.com. How we price.